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Starting with the issue that You are reading today in our magazine opens a new section “Conversations about style with Aidarkhan Kaliev”.
Briefly about the author of the heading: Aidarkhan Kaliyev – chief designer of the fashion House “ASYL-Design”, PhD, associate Professor of art, author of more than 60 fashion and seasonal collections. His author’s collections have long been the hallmark of Kazakhstan at the World and International forums and exhibitions. Under his leadership, brand models from domestic brands “ASPARA” and “Aidar Khan”are produced. Despite 25 years of experience in the fashion industry – very modest in terms of PR, demanding of himself and his employees, sustained with customers, aesthetes and patriot of his country.
The profession of fashion designer obliges us to be to a certain extent also modern sociologists for the purpose of a broader understanding of some categories, such as “beauty”, “style”, “image”, “fashion” , etc. the Great Mademoiselle in her quote connects the terms beauty and clothing, deliberately omitting the spiritual qualities of women, which in the last century were taken for granted. And, today, speaking of a stylish woman, we mean a lady in which at any time and in different circumstances harmoniously combines personal qualities (level of intelligence, demeanor and the art of communication) with the appearance (well-chosen clothes, shoes, makeup, accessories). Modern rapid pace of life makes a woman look stylish not only at work, receptions, offices, but even at home. However, every season trends in fashion trends, age-related changes in anthropometry, daily stresses at work and in business dictate the need to correct their individual style. In conversations, I will try to acquaint You with a little tricks of the art of costume and give useful information to adapt to the norms of aesthetics of clothing.
The questioner hears only what he wants to hear and seeks only authoritative confirmation of his own opinion. For decades of work with a solid clientele you understand that many ladies are more indulgent to themselves and picky to others. At the same time, much attention is focused on their merits and do not notice some defects, in full confidence that others will look the same.
Therefore, I ask You to correctly analyze the information predlagaemoi in the future, virtually try on suggestions. Well, if You think that none of the proposed does not fit, stay true to the previous style for a while.
So, to create an individual style Your personal qualities must be supplemented with a unique look. This image is created by properly selected clothes, shoes, hairstyles, makeup, accessories, colors, texture fabrics, etc.
The correct proportions for an ordinary woman is the body shape in the form of an “hourglass”. The length of the upper body should be approximately equal to the lower part. But nature decreed otherwise and created many deviations from the rules. And a woman now, in agony running around the shops, looking for suitable clothes that would hide flaws, and identified the dignity of the figure. Correct the shortcomings of the physique can be easily. The main thing is to closely monitor what visual effect creates a particular detail in the clothes. And also adequately assess your image as a whole.
Conventionally, there are four types of female figures, which are usually denoted by the letters X, A, H, T. the Choice of letters is not accidental, take a closer look – their style if repeats the corresponding silhouette of a female figure. Ladies with a figure of type X have ideal proportions by nature: equal in width shoulders and hips, a pronounced waist. This figure is also called “hourglass”. Women with such a classic type of figure can afford any styles and silhouettes of clothing, you only need to take into account your color type, shape of the face and legs.
In the next issue we will talk with you with figures type A, N, T. Until.
Fashion house “ASYL-Design” under the leadership of chief designer Aidarkhan Kaliyev for 18 years engaged in the design and manufacture of modern clothing. Fashion house “ASYL-Design” produces clothes in the style of “neo-folklore”. This style created by Aidarkhan Kaliyev can be described as the clothes of nomads, endowed with the spirit of modernity. When working on the collection “Spring-Summer 2012” fashion house designers professionally combined the trends of European fashion with the wise traditions of nomad costume, under the motto of elegance and femininity with a slight hint of Ethnography. The collection was created in the style of “neo-folklore” class “pret – a – port luxury” which combined:
1. Loyalty to the traditions of nomadic costume art;
2. High quality performance;
3. The introduction of innovative technologies for the design of modern clothing.
The collection uses popular bright colors: green, blue, emerald, pink, purple, red, orange, as well as various character prints. The design of prints is based on ethnic stylized motifs: petroglyphs of Tamgaly tract, the theme of the Eternal city of Taraz, graphic presentation of nomadic life. Light flowing natural silks of different textures, cotton fabrics, viscose organza and sequin fabrics were used as the material. Moreover, each set is made of a combination of different types of fabrics with the same print, so it is accepted in many famous fashion Houses. The collection is based on fashionable clothes in the style of the 20s and partly 70’s – this is a recognized trend.
Many model Houses develop collections based on the synthesis of promising forms of fashion trends and individual style. One of such designing organizations in Kazakhstan is the fashion House “ASYL-Design” with the ASPARA trademark.
Once one of the great designers of our time said: “Fashion can be bought, and the style is created as a result of hard work.” Fashion house “ASYL-Design” for 17 years formed and honed his style –style “neo-folklore”. Today, the style of the fashion House “ASYL-Design” can be briefly described as “Clothes created based on folk costume and endowed with the spirit of modernity.” Therefore, very original, comfortable, elegant models of “pret-a-port” from “ASYL-Design” and lines of ready-made clothes “ASPARA”, “Aidar Khan” are in great demand not only abroad, but also in Kazakhstan.
Aidarkhan Kaliyev – chief designer, candidate of technical Sciences, associate Professor of art history.
The correspondent of our newspaper contacted the chief designer of the fashion House “ASYL-DESIGN” – Aidarkhan Kaliev, candidate of technical Sciences, associate Professor of art.
Corr. “Aidarkhan! Tell us the symbol of the year horoscope Tiger affect the fashion trends of the season?»
Aidarkhan: “I have been observing the trends of the world fashion for many years. Well-known designers in order to create more advertising or creative the collection, dedicated to the characters on the sign. For example, the coming year 2010 is considered by some to be the year of the yellow metal tiger, others the year of the white metal tiger. In any case, this binding can be symbolic and partially influence the General trend. For example, to the symbol of 2010 year – the Tiger was satisfied and bless you for the entire year for success in work, career and personal life on new year, you can wear clothes or accessories with hints of yellow, white or orange. Since this year of the tiger has another metal symbol, you can wear a variety of jewelry made of precious or simple metals: earrings, bracelets, chains, pendants, rings. At the same time, it is necessary to have a stone “tiger’s eye”, which has not only healing properties, but also magically helps in business, personal life, brings good luck to kind and sincere people, sharpens intuition.»
Corr. “Fashion designers offer us different styles, fabrics and colors. But will it be fashionable and relevant? The final verdict is issued on the buyers. What is proposed on the catwalks this season will be popular?»
Aidarkhan: “You are absolutely right. No matter how sophisticated fashion designers are in their collections, as a rule, buyers and fashion experts look at new collections through the eyes of buyers and prefer wearable models of the “pret-a-port”class. Professional fashion is primarily a commercial enterprise that lives by its own laws. At the same time, one of the main laws is to change the form of models, its relevance in modern life. For example, the main form in the trends of the upcoming season were hypertrophied hourglass – a wide line of shoulders and hips, a thin waist, as well as a silhouette-cocoon, pear-shaped silhouette and a trapezoid silhouette. Practically, it is the fashion of 40th and 80th of the last century adapted to modern conditions. The factors of adaptation were a dynamic lifestyle, the influence of the “high-tech” style and the improvement of methods of clothing production. I want to note the democratic fashion of the upcoming season, which is manifested in the convenience of clothing, in the disguise of age-related changes in the figure, in the practicality of the fabrics used and restraint of color models. According to experts of the world Association of Colorists are considered fashionable white, ochre, yellow, red, brown, black, purple, eggplant. Black. This color never goes out of fashion. It looks equally good both day and evening. Grey. It is the second most popular among designers. It was used in all its variety of shades. This also applies to metallic grey. The combination of black and white. A classic that comes back, though it probably didn’t go anywhere. This combination looks good on women of all ages. Brown. It can be combined with any neutral color. Relevant as shades of pastel and bright colors obtained by mixing the main. Without a doubt, the favorites of the season are velvet and satin, which have an original texture and metallic luster, as well as fabrics obtained as a result of the use of high technologies. At the Milan shows it was noticeable more and more use in the collections of natural, artificial, colored and textured furs. These are fur vests, skirts, shoes, capes, sleeves and cuffs. Due to its practicality and comfort almost all collections of model Houses used knitwear of different textures. Knitted details in models, fantasy compositions of finished products, create a sense of integrity and attractiveness of the collection.
In General, the main trend of the season is a successful silhouette in my opinion: the extended shoulder line, the originality of the sleeves, the moderate fit of the products on the waist line and the skirt of complex shapes. At the same time, it is valuable that each of the trends can be used in combination or separately, depending on anthropometric and age characteristics.»
Corr. “Aidarkhan. You have told our readers in detail about the fashion trends of the upcoming season. What does Your collection look like and where can you see it?»
Aidarkhan: “As a House of models, we consider it our duty to create seasonal collections twice a year. Unlike Milan and Paris shows not for the season ahead, but in the season according to a pre-approved schedule in the cities of Kazakhstan and the CIS, where there are representatives of the fashion House “ASYL-DESIGN”. As a rule, this is a collection of highly artistic and exclusive models, made on the basis of world fashion trends, taking into account climatic conditions, regional mentality and typology of figures. The final show of the collection of the season “Autumn-Winter 09/10” is expected in Astana in the second half of January, and simplified copies of the models of the collection are already on sale under the trademark “ASPARA” .»
THE STORY OF THE FAN, OR THE DISCREET CHARM OF THE ART “SHAKEN”.
We, the descendants of the ancient Saks and Turks, now citizens of the rapidly developing state, have the opportunity to admire exotic places around the globe, admire the masterpieces of world culture. Sometimes, chasing spiritual and aesthetic values, we do not think much about the material culture of our ancestors, who can re-claim world recognition.
With the change in lifestyle, the need for the phenomenon of architectural structures of nomads-the Yurt, the use of felt in everyday life, and even more so in traditional clothes, disappeared. Only from the stage or at Nauryz celebrations we admire the wisdom, beauty, modest charm of our traditions and continue to look at them as Souvenirs.
During the years of Independence, more began to understand that due to the tradition of the development of culture, as a single organism in the history of the people. The study of the history of culture of the Kazakh people gives a clear idea of the parallel creation of material and spiritual values. And, therefore, today we have a serious task – to master the existing traditions and contribute to the common Treasury of culture. This idea is quite well sanctified in the recent Address of the Head of state to the people of Kazakhstan.
One of the material values inherited from our ancestors is weaving and production of unique clothes. Over the centuries, the culture of nomadic clothing has been significantly influenced by other cultures, thus introducing a new character, shape and trends. The nomads, in turn, polished their costume, putting the idea of beauty and comfort. Analysis of compositional and constructive features of the exhibits in the Fund of the Central State Museum of Kazakhstan (Almaty), the State Museum of Ethnography of the peoples of Russia, the Museum of anthropology and Ethnography. Peter 1 of the Academy of Sciences of Russia (Moscow) indicates the embodiment of the best features in terms of ergonomics and comfort, aesthetics and protection from the adverse effects of nature. Requirements for modern clothing are similar, with a difference in the variety of shapes, decor, texture and color combinations.
Professional fashion designers and fashion designers in search of new ideas often turn to the traditions of folk costume. One of the creative sources of inspiration and the concept of creating new clothes for the author of the article was – “shekpen”. In the original “shaken” – outerwear, made of self-sewed the fabric from the camel wool. Seeing for the first time “shaken” how to exhibit in the underground mosque of the complex of Khoja Ahmed Yassavi in Turkestan, and then in the village Kizilot Zhambyl region sewn at the end of the last century, the author noted the discreet charm of laconic shapes, finishes, natural color and durability of the product. Later, the study of the virtues of camel hair and products from it once again proved the wise traditions of nomads. It turned out that camel hair is able to withstand various weather conditions, has a unique low thermal conductivity, high moisture absorbency, high strength, low property, good elasticity and twice as light as sheep, and its healing properties for the treatment of many diseases, often spoken in folk medicine.
These advantages finally prompted the author to create, yet creative collection “Great steppe”. Thinking that an interesting idea is well forgotten, but updated in the modern version forced the author to make a chronological analysis. Even the rulers, the nobles of Ancient Rome and Byzantium loved to wear clothes made of camel hair, brought by nomads from the great steppe. The essays of ancient chroniclers tell that in the heyday of the Great silk road “shekpen” was highly valued and exported by merchants in four directions: to the South through Bukhara to Persia, through the Northern coast of the Caspian sea to Russia and Europe, through the Upper Yenisei to Siberia and through Dzungaria to China. In the beginning of the last century, the ethnographer A. E. Felkerzams in the writings of the “Ancient carpets of Central Asia” have noted the phenomenon of the use of the soft fur camel colts at home. In his book “Argonauts of the middle ages” V. P. Darkevich admired the high art of nomads in making fabrics from camel wool yarn. In her works “the History of Central Asian costume” the famous Soviet ethnographer O. A. Sukhareva described that “robes made of homespun cloth were also worn in Samarkand. They were bought ready from the steppe-pastoralists. Very valued and were available to rich people robes of camel hair reddish-brown color.”
A lot of works about the phenomenon of “shaken” dedicated to a prominent Kazakh scientists and researchers U. Dzhanibekov, A. Margulan, E. Zakharova, R. street, M. Mukanov and others. In the 80-ies the production of cloth from camel wool was established in Kargaly worsted-cloth factory. Unfortunately, despite the great demand, the production of factory fabrics was stopped due to the collapse of the former Union.
Essays, materials and preserved products-the originals were given to the author to feel the spirit of the time, and then give the “shaken” the spirit of the day. This led to the idea of creating fabrics and then clothes that meet modern requirements, while maintaining the tradition. To preserve the tradition, as well as many years ago, the wool of camels was selected and spun on the uyrshyk, scurried to the restored horizontal narrow-edged machine and woven by hand. The modernity of fabrics was achieved by painting the yarn from the wool of white camels and their combination in the composition of the warp and weft yarns with different shaped yarn during weaving. The illustrations of the article are enlarged twice photos of the fabrics and the corresponding models of modern clothing from the collection “Great steppe”. Woven in the experimental laboratory of the fashion House “ASYL-DESIGN” “shaken” (Fig. 1.(a)), is a copy of those paintings that were created many centuries ago. Cloth and costume-image (Fig. 2.(a)) despite their modesty, they embody the spirit of antiquity, tradition and at the same time modernity. A special national color lies in the model (Fig. 2.(b)) made from the original “shaken” Kargaly worsted mill, trimmed with Astrakhan fur and silk embroidery. In figure 1, the results of experiments with “shekpen” – derived fabrics: combination with colored yarn from sheep wool (b), typesetting weaving using cotton yarns (C), the use of melange yarn from Angora (g), the use of weft yarn curled (d), textured inclusion of mohair yarn in the warp yarn (e), weaving into the finished yarn of nappy methane (g), as well as the creation of a smooth texture on the surface by hand sewing beads, poyetok (h).
The use of modern types of yarn (no more than 15-20%) and combinatorial design methods, gave the fabrics a fashionable look and a special texture relevant today.
Work on a collection of models of hand-woven fabric derivatives required the use of traditional cut in variation with modern. The width of the canvas, about one elbow or 2-3 inches, dictated its terms cut either in a straight line or diagonally. With this logic, the cut is difficult to get the product adjacent silhouette or vtachnye sleeves. Successful synthesis of traditional and modern methods of tailoring contributed to the creation of new forms of clothing and proportions. Figure 2 (b-e) shows some of the model-derived fabrics “shaken”, United in the collection “the Great steppe”. For several years, the collection was demonstrated on the catwalks of international fashion festivals. Over the modest charm of “shekpen” enthusiastically admired by experienced Western experts and designers during the fashion Week in the Baltic (BALTIC FASHION WEEK). “My God! What a beauty! So many traditions” – I exclaimed, taking a gift of a painting derived “shaken” by the famous Russian couturier Vyacheslav Zaitsev. “This luxury should be used as a shawl or insert in good clothes” – admired, buying, the wives of foreign diplomats at the Days of Kazakhstan fashion in Uzbekistan. And such examples can be a large number.
Yet, we are thinking of a new derivative tissues; while, the restless revolves ursic in the hands of masters, gently fingering the roving wool camel colts; yet, hard-working weaver sitting at the loom in the villages create new exclusive tracks – the discreet charm of the art “shaken” impresses experienced in the world of fashion specialists and, slowly but surely re-gaining their recognition.
The coming year of the Snake symbolizes intelligence, wisdom, will and speed of reaction. And, of course, the beautiful half of humanity is concerned with the question “what to celebrate the New year? What will be fashionable in the coming year?”.
And, so, definitely in clothes should prevail metallic shades of silver, gold and copper colors. Outfit, it is in this range will look at your figure, emphasize your personality, dignity and hide the problematic moments. On new year’s eve you can also wear outfits turquoise, blue, purple, dark green and the color of the sea wave.
As a material it is recommended to use thin guipure, Batiste, mesh with the addition of lace. The decor of the dresses is rich with a matte sheen. Chiffon, jacquard, velvet, velour and natural fur are in fashion. Fluffy vests, fur coats, jackets with fur collars and cuffs will be the squeak of the season. Velour in combination with fur looks very expensive and noble. A translucent chiffon outfits will make the image sexy and daring.
Tight-fitting or moderately tight, flowing outfits of different shapes will slightly Shine through the feminine outlines of your figure, look very expensive and gentle and attract the attention of the stronger sex.
I wish you to meet the year of the snake in a very beautiful and stylish outfit, to be attractive and bright. After all, as the new year to meet, and spend it!
Happy New year!
With respect, chief designer of the fashion House “ASYL-Design” – Aidarkhan Kaliev.